Wind rubbing against the water surface is a major cause of waves. Since the water cannot keep up with the wind velocity, the water rises and then falls, creating the familiar wave-like motion. Depending upon the wind velocity and the distance the wind has been able to travel over the water, different size waves are generated.
| Type of Wave |
Wind Velocity |
Effect |
| Capillary waves |
Less than 3 knots |
Tiny ripples. The longer they are generated, the larger their amplitude |
| Chop or regular |
3–12 knots |
Combined capillary waves that have traveled far and formed larger waves |
| Whitecaps |
11–15 knots |
Amplitude of wave must be over 1/7th the wavelength in order to break into a whitecap |
| Ocean swells |
No specific speed |
Form over long distances from a combination of different waves |
